Two bargain wines that truly are bargains

Beringer California Pinot Grigio 2003, $4 to $6

One of the things I look for, in any wine, is how closely I agree with the notes (when there are any!) on the bottle label.

This wine “offers refreshing aromas and flavors of citrus, melon and tropical fruit.” I agree. It’s clean and acidic enough to complement lightly-creamed dishes and grilled or sautéed fish, chicken and pork.

For its price, its lingering non-sugary lemonade memory on the palate makes it especially satisfying, and its mouthfeel – rich but not buttery – means it can stand up to shrimp scampi as well as a good sauvignon blanc, and better than all but the most minerally chardonnays.

It’s a good summer sipping wine, too. Go get some!

Pepperwood Grove California Zinfandel 2001, $2 to $6 at the end of its run

I write about a vintage that you may not be able to find because the label is a good one for bargains. I think there’s a house style which means that later vintages won’t force you to borrow from your 401k and will be satisfying.

The label says “rich, warm and racy.” Hmmm. Those are very non-specific terms, aren’t they? I agree, but would add that the richness nevertheless is what I’d call soft. “Warm” often means high alcohol, but this isn’t alcoholic; the label says 12.5 percent and I’m pretty sure it’s really not more than 12. People are beginning to realize the 12 percent can mean some residual sugar; this wine doesn’t have any.

The label suggests pairing with pork chops or steak, and I’d agree. It’s not a muscle wine, but neither are pork or steak honestly prepared to be true to the beasts that gave their lives for you.

I like Zinfandel full of berries, but that comes from cool areas like the Russian River and part of the Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County, California. They cost a lot more. They are worth it! But I have never met anyone who objects to a modestly plummy flavor in Zin, which this has. I object to prunes in Zin, but this doesn’t have that. It drinks beautifully all by itself. With pork and simple steak it’s a real bargain.