A fine, fruity Sonoma County Bordeaux

Kenwood Vineyards 2006 Sonoma County cabernet sauvignon, $15

Two years maturing in American and French oak have tamed sturdy tannic acid in a dark, dense Bordeaux blend that looks — and tastes — like fruity Santa Rosa plums with a couple of other elements that at first seemed hard to name.

Others have identified fig, with a hint of pipe tobacco. That works for me, but the primary impression is plums. Bright acids include whatever is characteristic of cranberries; maybe the berry flavor is in there, too.

Nephew Ron shared this wine. I’ll be pairing it with boneless, skinless chicken breast sauteed in I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter and olive oil. The meat will top a slice of whole wheat toast. And the chicken itself will be topped with a couple of rashers of platter bacon. At the table, the dish will get the final topping — fresh-grated pecorino romano cheese and a dribble of salad-quality virgin olive oil.

At the side will be roasted red potatoes and steamed broccoli and cauliflower. I have made little bit of sauce for the vegetables — butter, fig-balsamic vinegar, a dash of this wine and, because the sauce turned out a bit too acidic, a dollop of low-fat yogurt. I usually serve vegetables “naked,” but I’ll test them with a bit of the sauce to see if it works.

Ordinarily I’d write after the meal, but I think the pairing should work well. –Bob Cramer, The Fearless Taster.