I’d love to get a few more bottles of the 2008 Crianza from Bodegas Riolanc in Spain . . . but the bottle label warns: “The grape yield was just 1.6 kilograms per vine and the grapes were hand-harvested. Very limited production.” Lucky break for me, since it’s one of the wine club offerings from Food and Wine magazine nephew Ron gave me when I turned 80 in June.

Today I got to watch the London Olympics all by myself. Judy is working food service for 17 days at our big Sonoma County Fair and Erik is offering comfort to a close friend who just lost his father, with whom he lived and worked. Joey’s dad, by the way, was in demand world wide among celebrated musicians as inventor/maker of special hemp-resonation audio speakers.

So I had plenty of time to taste, even though I wasn’t making a meal. Judy and I love Tempranillas, including a handful being made in northern California. They’re often paired with grilled red meats, especially lamb, but I’m glad I hadn’t planned that for today — this wine, unlike the heavier Syrah/Shiraz, would be great with a grilled chicken ciabatta sandwich with lightly grilled red onions and a touch of a smoky barbecue sauce.

I’m tasting it by itself right now, but later I’ll have some with a small serving of batter-fried chicken breast Judy brought home from the fair, re-heating the meat and finishing it with a light brushing of fig-infused red wine vinegar. My remaining half-bottle of Rioja Crianza 2008 will be enjoyed tomorrow evening with Judy and maybe some more of that chicken from the fair.

Now, here’s what I have to say about the wine itself. Bright ruby/red cherry in color, it teases the nose with what a good-year French red Burgundy or a classic Syrah should offer: red plum and leather with a hint of dark spice.

What I tasted was red stone fruit and allspice in a rich whole-grain cobbler. The acids are complex and perfectly balanced, one of them being tannic acid as in a high-end jasmine or lemongrass tea. An exotic tea sensation dominates a short but sprightly finish.

Even though this is a 2008 wine, the wine club suggests decanting it for an hour. While I know many people are put off by tannic acid, I’m enjoying it all by itself so I’d say if you find a bottle of it, open it and taste an ounce or two. I think you’ll find it a great aperitif; leave that decanting warning for weak-spined old folks! –Bob Cramer, The Fearless Taster.