Brief fearless notes on Naked Wines: a Tempranilla and a Portuguese Vinho Tinta

Judy bought a case of wines from Naked Wines, a Napa negociant who goes a second mile to encourage promising unknown producers. Here are a couple.

Trigales Angels Share Red, nonvintage, from Spain.

This is a Tempranilla from Rioja. “By Carlos Rodriguez,” the label says. And it is what one expects from a bottle of Tempranilla. It displays a very pretty clear ruby/garnet color, with a nose of sweet light cherry and subtle mocha. The taste follows the nose: soft, round, great balance, with a subtle transformation into a raspberry creme aftertaste. It would be good with any pizza, with salmon or tuna, or chicken thighs. The alcohol is a modest 13 percent. We bought this in a mixed case for $60, but apparently it’s supposed to be a $10 wine. At $5 it was a super value; at $10 it’s about right. You can order it from www.nakedwines.com .

Montaria Vinho Tinta Red Wine

This non-vintage Portuguese red wine is not credited with a specific appellation. At 13.7 percent alcohol, its very dark purple, almost black, appearance suggests dark stone fruit and is surprisingly approachable. There’s lots of bright (but not sharp) acid, and dark fruit taste. The label identifies tobacco as well; I wanted at first to think leather, but I think the label may be right. In either case, it’s not one-dimensional and it’s the kind of tasty liquid food you’d want to pair with roast or grilled pork, saltimbocca, or wild fowl.

Bob Cramer, The Fearless Taster.