Credence 2011 Lake County Sauvignon Blanc, by Jason Moore

Something about the Sonoma County climate creeping northward — part of global warming, which winegrowers recognize is happening — is signalling us to look not only to Mendocino County but Lake County appellations for fine, versatile wines to accompany a broad variety of foods.

We just had one of the wines that Napa’s Naked Wines has marked as deserving of more attention, and it indeed is versatile. We had a layered casserole of sliced potatoes, sweet onions, broccoli and two cheeses (pepper jack and pecorino romano) roasted in a covered cast-iron skillet in a covered barbecue grill. It was perfect.

Versatility means we also had a simple grilled london broil along with it. Such a simple supper! Such a satisfying trio of foods: steak, potatoes and onions, and Sauvignon Blanc! We also had an inexpensive Shiraz, and both went well with what we were eating — but my point is that a fine Sauvignon Blanc is just as compatible with simple grilled steak as it is with a potato-onion dish. Inquire about this wine at www.nakedwiines.com . Bob Cramer, The Fearless Taster.