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Long-in-the-toothers like me remember fondly the cheap, sturdy, delicious — and ubiquitous — Chiantis in the student hangouts around campus. We didn’t know it was based on Sangiovese and wouldn’t have cared. We just loved the bottle in a basket.

Now we want our Chianti marked “Classico,” made as back then: Sangiovese, but prime quality, with a couple squirts of other officially-approved Tuscan varieties, including a white, in the bottle.

We’re beginning — at last — to notice Sangiovese Rose, now that we are realizing “rose” isn’t just any old red and white thrown together. We’re getting to like it. Love it, even.

Sonoma County, California, grows wonderful Sangiovese and, after a slow start, it’s selling well as a round, full red wine.

Here John Hart produces Hart’s Desire Sangiovese Rose in the Alexander Valley. It’s his 2012 offering I’m tasting today — a deep pink coral beauty, dry, round, silky-citric with sensuous if vaguely mysterious fruit and even vegetal flavors and a long aftertaste that pleads for another glass with pork or chicken or . . . by itself. (I think it doesn’t pair well with spicy dishes, even though full-red Sangiovese does.)

Judy masterminded a Valentine’s cabaret at church and brought back the remainder of a couple of bottles of donated wines. The Hart’s Desire was nearly empty. Employing a non-statistical, unscientific measurement of how well it was received (by people who probably aren’t yet fully into the world of “real” rose), I judge it to have been tried-and-enjoyed.

[The technique I’m referring to (I’m sure you’re dying to know) is taught in college classes as an “unintrusive measure.” If people return for seconds, and suggest others try it, they like it. There weren’t a lot of wine consumers at this cabaret, so peeking at the bottles was a good sneaky easy to conduct “unobtrusive” test. There. Aren’t you glad you read The Fearless Taster?] — Bob Cramer, www.fearlesstaster.com .

Saronsberg 2011 Artspace Red

Three Rhone varietals with a bit of Bordeaux . . . produced in South Africa . . . designed to enrich meals of ribs, lamb, and wine-braised beef? Yep. It works.

The blend is 56 percent shiraz, 25 percent mourvedre, 14 percent grenache and five percent cabernet sauvignon. We had it with syrah-braised pork short ribs — delightful.

Deep cherry-red, it brought stone fruit to the nose but in the mouth it fairly yelled “smooth, bold blackberry and game notes,” which is the way the Food and Wine club described it. Acids are well-balanced and vibrant, offering a long, delicious aftertaste.

It’s not on every American wine shop shelf, I’m sure, so try the producer’s website — www.saronsberg.com . Bob Cramer, www.fearlesstaster.com .

Wife Judy said last night, as we tasted a new Food and Wine magazine wine club offering, “It’s not like the other tempranillos we’ve been trying . . . and liking.”

True. But they’ve all been New World wines. This is our second tasting of a tempranillo from its Spanish homeland, and while we really like how it matures in different soils and climates, this wine sets a benchmark for the others. It’s lush, extravagantly fruity, and versatile — great as an aperitif and with red meat, chicken, and pasta.

That’s remarkable for a wine “from 90 year old vines, whose small, concentrated grapes give it intensity,” as the wine club says in its notes. It should overshadow foods like roast beef with noodles and brussels sprouts baked with craisins and their juice. But last night, Judy’s sibling, Barbara with her husband, Don, put that expectation to rest. The meal was prepared to go with a lovely northern California zinfandel (which was very good) but it also glowed in the company of this “Asterico” tempranillo.

I’m sure it didn’t hurt that the wine was aged for six months in French barrels — a fresh spin on traditional American oak. And that its creator was Rosa Maria Zarza. known in the Toro region as their premiere female winemaker.

All four at this simple family dinner found the Asterico offering delicious, satisfying, and even — for Judy and me, at least — worth querying www.fwwineclub.com for a way to grab a few more bottles.

This shipment of F&W wines, from nephew/niece Ron and Sherry, had just arrived as I pondered what wine to offer our dinner hosts. I looked them over and decided there was no way we could go wrong with this one. I was right. — Bob Cramer, www.fearlesstaster.com.