Angeline 2008 Alexander Valley cabernet sauvignon, $12-16

Our Valentine’s Day dinner last night was greatly enhanced by one of the wines Ron Dumont gave me for Christmas.

I’d been studying the list of gold-medal winners at the 2010 San Francisco Wine Competition — but had managed somehow not to see this local product in that august company. (The Chronicle show is the largest showing of wines from every American appellation, so Martin Ray’s Angeline had plenty of competition.)

This is a rich and delicious wine that’s delightful when consumed all by itself. That’s unusual for an Alexander Valley full-bodied cabernet sauvignon which has none of the other classic Bordeaux varietals to modify this varietal’s usual muscle.

Before describing it further, let me tell you that its appeal increased with the meal. We had prime rib of beef, baked potatoes (with bacon gravy!), a mixed-green salad with al-dente broccoli and cauliflower florettes, cucumber, and shredded carrots.

Martin Ray, Angeline’s “parent,” doesn’t bother to say much about the wine on its back label. What it does say I certainly agree with: “Concentrated fruit and elegant structure.”

I found a rather shy nose but, in the mouth, intense fully-ripe blackberries and a rich background of currants and red stone fruit. Tannic acid is firm but very approachable — which I mention because many readers like Bordeaux blends more than cabernet sauvignon by itself. As young as this wine is, the tannins feel like a cabernet-merlot blend but the winery says nope: nada. The cabernet sauvignon grapes, however, do come from a variety of Alexander Valley vineyards.

The reason this wine can be enjoyed without food is that its flavors are really rich and its acids are totally balanced with absolutely no “flat spots” on the palate or in a moderately-long aftertaste. The aftertaste, by the way, reminded me of fresh-fruit cocktail. That’s in a cabernet sauvignon? Yep. Alexander Valley gives Napa and Bordeaux, France a good run for the money. And “the money” isn’t all that much considering the treat this bottle will give you.

Ron assembled a “baker’s case” (13 bottles) of affordable, surprisingly high quality reds (the 13th bottle is a chardonnay). The first two bottles got away from me before I’d made notes on them (I took them to a party; won’t do that again!). This is the fourth wine. I have to say Ron and his wine merchant are doing great as they see if they can impress a long-retired commercial (if part-time) wine writer.