Last time I raved like this over a Napa wine must’ve been in an earlier incarnation, maybe with Shirley MacLaine?

Napa Station 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon red blend, from Ron and Sherry’s Food and Wine Magazine wine club salute to my Eightieth, has it all. Really.

Supporting the Napa Cab are Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Petite Sirah. I guess the blend would be called Meritage, except for the peppery Petite Sirah, which I’m glad is in there. The grapes were sourced from super-quality vineyards in the Napa Valley — Oakville, Rutherford and Atlas Peak.

So what’s to rave about? Start with the truthfulness (yes, really) of the wine club’s note: “Exuberant Napa fruit.” I expected that when I poured my first taste. The color was such a very deep garnet that I tried to think of a better term but I couldn’t — I want to stress the bright hue that “inky” doesn’t suggest. Maybe I should mention that if you get some, you may at first think the wine is fined and filtered; but I doubt it because there’s a bit of sediment. That tells me the wine has been alive in the bottle. That’s good.

When a wine is really full of brilliant fruit, the nose tells you that as you pull the cork. It’s FRUITY, which is what the wine club meant by “exuberant.”

So, is this a wine that’ll bite back? Does it have jaws and teeth? No! It’s soft, round, full bodied, totally balanced — a wonder. Dark berries and dark chocolate carry one to a peppery finish that just longs to be paired with lamb and beef with herbs and spices and even rich sauces.

I find I’m beating up my keyboard. Enough of the raving. Time for another big full taste. — Bob Cramer, The Fearless Taster.